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Review |
Mangiare! Chicago-Lincoln ParkTrattoria Gianni |
Ten years may not seem like that much time in the big scheme of things, but for an Italian restaurant to flourish this long in a desperately competitive environment, it is quite an achievement. Just think of the countless establishments, good and bad, that, like so many shooting stars, have flashed into oblivion. What does it take to survive, anyway? Good food, the right location, courteous service and a little luck? You bet! But to put all these things together, it takes tough and imaginative leadership with the necessary drive and optimism to stay the course. Gianni Delisi has measured up to these challenges and his family-run restaurant, Trattoria Gianni, is a winner in every way!
Strategically located in the bustling Lincoln Park theater district, it is perhaps inevitable that some of the regulars here are such well known celebs as Gary Sinese, Nicole Kiddman, Uta Hagen and John Malkovich, but you don't need to see stars to feel special at the Trattoria Gianni! The exposed brick walls and natural wood trim, contrasted with the immaculately set white-covered tables provide an ideal blend of comfort and elegance, while the subdued lighting ensures the right kind of intimacy to enjoy the outstanding culinary treats that await you.
From first course to last, the dishes at Trattoria Gianni are painstakingly prepared and thrillingly tasty, and should be accompanied by a reasonably priced selection from the restaurant's extensive wine list. For appetizers try the Portobello alla griglia, not only an ample and perfectly cooked mushroom, but one served in a delectable sauce of oil, garlic, rosemary and the finest balsamic vinegar. All the sauces here are fantastic, but there's none better than that served with the excellent Calamari fritti, my personal favorite appetizer. Usually I have mine with only some squeezed lemon. But when I tried the pungent marinara that came with it, I liked it so much that I actually took what was left home with me!
The three primi piatti we had were all outstanding. One of the many specials that augment each section of the regular menu daily was the risotto trevigiana, a superb concoction with raddichio and served with wedges of fresh mozzarella. Also a delight was the Tortellini Baronessa, which came in a light sauce with prosciutto, mushrooms and peas. Delisi's Sicilian heritage came to the fore in his Penne al pomodoro e basilico. This red sauce, made with the finest San Marzano tomatoes, is simply the best that I have ever had at any restaurant! We also sampled the Rigatoni nocerina with sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, olive oil, garlic and fresh basil in a cream sauce. No wonder this is the most popular pasta dish on the menu.
One of our entrees was another special, the Costolette d'agnello alla griglia, ultra-tender baby lamb chops in a wine sauce with garlic and rosemary served with roasted potatoes. Fantastic! We also had the super tasty Saltimbocca alla Sorrentina, veal scallopine topped with prosciutto and mozzarella, sautéed in a delicate white wine sauce.
If you love Italian food at its best, and want to enjoy it in surroundings that are molto gentile with the best service you can imagine, you absolutely must visit the Trattoria Gianni!
Il viaggiatore
